The iconoclastic chef reimagines Canada’s diverse food culture through a Japanese lens, forging high-concept cuisine at his restaurants Eight, Nupo, and Shokunin.

When Darren MacLean’s Eight cracked the Top 10 of the Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants list this year, those used to watching restaurants in Montreal, Vancouver, and Toronto dominate the top of the list were surprised. Despite rave reviews from those who have actually dined at Eight, which has just eight seats and is tasting-menu only—the restaurant hasn’t received as much national chatter as more bustling dining rooms in Canada’s larger cities, partly due to its location in Calgary’s somewhat underdog restaurant scene but also because of the limited number of seats.