Beyond sushi, Shokunin tempts with smoky, tender yakitori, grilled in the style of Tokyo yakitorias, like chicken thighs glazed in an umami-rich tare — a blend of soy sauce, sake and mirin that is refreshed daily with charcoal-grilled chicken bones — that is as old as the restaurant itself. For an elevated experience, Shokunin offers four seat, 12-course yakitori omakase.

Recent barbecue menu additions include char sui St. Louis ribs and miso-marinated lamb racks, both cooked over fire on a custom Argentine Asador grill. You’ll also find bluefin tuna kama, served with lettuce wraps, fresh herbs and Japanese condiments, and wild game tsukene on a skewer.

We’re happy the menu still has the cold-shucked Hokkaido scallop sauced with yuzu kosho nuoc cham, Japanese wagyu striploin aged for 30 days in beeswax for incredible flavour, and the sleeper hit, sesame baby kale salad with a delicate goma-ae dressing, finished with parmesan and a ramen egg.

Shokunin also boasts what could be Calgary’s best curated sake list, including Junmai Daiginjo-Shu, the pinnacle of the sake world. Another treat is the Oku No Matsu, a sparkling sake with aromas of white chocolate and bread pudding to flavours of grapefruit, apple and vanilla.

2016 4 St. S.W., 403-229-3444, shokuninyyc.ca, @shokuninyyc